97 F150 4.6 Spark Plug Wire Diagram

4.6L, 5.4L Modular Spark Plug Replacement

How to Supplant the Spark Plugs in the 5.4L or 4.6L Equipped Ford F-150, Expedition

The engineers at Ford made replacing the spark plugs on the 4.6L and 5.4L engines a difficult task. Not only are the locations difficult to entree, but then there's the risk of stripping the spark plug threads. However, replacing the spark plugs are non particular difficult once you cause the rightmost tools in front of you - IT may read you few hours the archetypical time, but it won't be nearly equally intimidating to repeat. IT is generally a wise idea to supplant ignition coils while you rich person them off, unless your current coils are comparatively new or are verified to be in good working order. Signs that your ignition needs attending include miss under consignment, hard/rough starting, poor fire economy, and shrunken performance/throttle response.

4.6L, 5.4L Spark Plug Draw

Model Year	Locomotive engine	Ford Part Turn
1997 - 2000	4.6L V-8	Motorcraft SP413 or Motorcraft SP432
2001 - 2008	4.6L V-8	Motorcraft SP493
2009 - 2010	4.6L V-8	Motorcraft SP509
1997	5.4L V-8	Motorcraft SP459
1998 - 2007	5.4L V-8	Motorcraft SP479
2008 - 2010	5.4L V-8	Motorcraft SP509

Note of hand - Always verify fitment for your application.
Part numbers non relevant to factory supercharged engines (Lightning, Harley Edition, etc).

There are a handful of "designer" spark plugs on the market, simply there is no improved choice than to select OEM Motorcraft spark plugs. The unchanged can be said for ignition coils - at that place is no aftermarket alternative that is passing to provide noticeable increases in performance or bound response. The OEM Motorcraft COPs (coil-along-spark plug) are as high in quality (or higher) than any other brand along the market.

4.6L, 5.4L Sparking plug Replacement Procedures

Each sparking plug is accessed through a caliber in the piston chamber head various inches below all soul ignition system coil. For most cylinders, you will not be able to physically see the sparking plug; this is primarily a blind operation. Afterward disconnecting the negative battery cable television and removing the plastic locomotive engine cover, the steps for replacing each spark plug are fairly straight forward:

• Unplug the firing whorl and fuel injector connectors to gain access to the gyre retainer bolt of lightning.

• Remove the coil retaining bolt of lightning using a 7 mm socket. Use carefulness equally not to lose the bolt in the engine valley - loosen the bolt with a socket, then unthread completely and remove it by helping hand.

• Deplume the ignition coil upwards to take; it English hawthorn expect a firm tug. It's perfectly median for the insulator boot to separate from the remainder of the coil. Just remove the reboot from the cylinder head bore and reinstall it on the ignition handbuild.

• Use flat air to snuff out any detritus from the gauge in the cylinder head where the spark plug is located. Any dirt, dust, operating theatre grime that you don't remove may embark the cylinder when the sparking plug is pulled.

• Use a 5/8" (1997 - 2003 sit years) OR 9/16" (2004+ model long time) spark plug socket and a combination of extensions to remove the set off plug. The gum boot inside the spark cud socket will secure the spark plug so it comes out when the socket is removed. Since visibility is poor at best, we recommend securing the socket and extension(s) onto the spark plug and verifying a firm fit before attaching your ratchet - the dying thing you want is to strip the hex head.

• Once the spark nag is loose disconnect your ratchet and finish unthreading by controlling the extension by hand.

• Avow the gap of the replacement spark plug (refer to underhood emissions label for proper disruption, it will vary with model year). Apply a abstemious coating of anti-seize to the threads.

• Set u the new spark plug by first placing it in the spark plug socket. Plugs must be started by hand to ensure that the soft aluminium threads of the cylinder head do not pillage. Spark off plugs should ribbon smoothly and completely without the use of a ratchet dow. Once the plug is threaded into place, install a ratchet and snug up the plug. Do not overtighten.

• Apply a dab of dielectric grease to the summit of the ignition coil, so reinstall the handbuild onto the spark plug. Aver that the coil is seated on the plug, then reinstall the servant bolt, fuel injector connexion, and ignition coil connective.

On camber 1 (rider) of the engine, cylinder 4 is the all but difficult plug to access. In decree to decrease clutter and give yourself a bigger lic space, dispatch the piston chamber 3 ignition system coil and unplug the cylinder 3 fuel injector. You should then cost able-bodied to squeeze a hand to the put up of the locomotive where the # 4 quid is settled. (3) x 6" extensions and a swivel/u-joint are wont to reach this fireplug. The exact same setup can buoy follow wont to remove the cylinder 3 plug. Extensions will also be required to reach the lighting coil retaining stiffly. Replacing of the #1 and #2 cylinders is fair straight fore with only a 6" extension.

For bank 2 (driver side), cylinder 8 will require the role of a 7 mm ric alternatively of a socket to absent the coil retainer dash (the fuel rail limits access). A double-jointed wing can be used to remove the hand-build servant on cylinder 7. (3) x 6" extensions and a pivot/u-joint can be accustomed remove the #7 and #8 spark plugs. The #6 spark plug is comparatively straight forward to remove. Accessing the cylinder 5 plug, however, requires removing the power steering reservoir square bracket (3 bolts victimisation an 8 mm socket). With the bracket removed, the #5 plug buttocks make up accessed with proportionate ease.

4.6L and 5.4L Spark Plug Replacement, Cylinder by Piston chamber

Click any thumbnail to catch high resolution fullsize image w/ add-on inside information (where applicable)

• An army of extensions and flex joints are required to achieve the various spark plugs. Iv different extension variations are required to change every last 8 set off plugs.

• Step 1 of the process is to remove the ignition coil and fuel injector connectors. Manufactory ignition coils are black - we've found the OEM coils last much longer than aftermarket replacements.

• The image at left provides a close up view of the eagre in the piston chamber head where the spark plugs are set. The basis of the sparking plug is several inches beneath the rim of the dullard. Replacing the glint plugs is a blind operation for the more difficult to reach into cylinders.

• An assortment of hoses makes it difficult to access the number 4 cylinder (passenger side, hindermost). The image at left displays one possible way to reach the spark plug with a serial of extensions. We find it's adjuvant to supply extensions as you go - start with a single extension and your socket, then add extensions once the socket is installed on the sparking plug. This seems to be easier than maneuvering 16 inches worth of extensions into place at once.

• You should e'er support the socket extension with your uncommitted manus as you put on squeeze to the rachet. This keeps the socket perpendicular to the spark chew testicle, minimizing the risk of uncovering the nut or breaking remove the tip.

• Certain ignition coil retaining bolts may as wel require the use of goods and services a series of extensions and pivot/u-joints.

• Accessing the number 5 cylinder requires removal of the power guidance fluid reservoir bracket (see image for reference).

• (2) x 6" extensions can be used to easily remove the piston chamber 5 spark plug. Notice that the spark plugs are not necessarily straight dormy-and-down within the cylinder heads - it is primary to find the correct angle and support the socket As you apply force to the ratchet.

• Close up regar of removing the cylinder 8 plug. Hold up the socket/extensions as non to damage the fire rail; it's a tight fit.

• The # 8 cylinder also has an assortment of lines and hoses that make access difficult. Withal, the correct combination of extensions will slide right into place without necessitating removal of any of these lines.

Additional Tips & Considerations

• Each fuel injector connector has a red rubber gasket on the inside that tends to fall out. Make a point to reinstall the gasket and be cautious not to let unmatched slip unconscious of reach into.

• If you find yourself having difficulty acquiring the thread of a sparking plug started information technology is likely seated too deep into the plug socket, thereby non leaving enough thread exposed when the socket bottoms out. Try pulling the trigger plug out of the socket ~ 1/8" to step-up the length of the exposed string. You wouldn't believe how farseeing it took to identify this anomaly - you'Re welcome.

• No brand comes many highly recommended than the OEM Motorcraft spark plugs.

• Replacement sparkle plugs should come pre-gapped, but forever countercheck and adjust as necessary. The proper gap for flicker plugs is always listed on the underhood emissions label. The gap for 2v 4.6L and 5.4L engines is .054 to .056 inches.

Source: https://www.f150hub.com/maintenance/4.6-5.4-spark-plug-replacement.html

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